How do I install the zero drag seals? Are they hard to install?

The zero drags are simple to install. 

Tools Required:  Flywheel Puller, Zenoah Engine Tool (or a piece of metal or hard plastic tubing the same diameter of the zero drag to press the zero drag into the rubber seal), Hammer, and Small Diameter Punch (or similar) to tap the “key” out of the slot in the crankshaft.

Zero Drag Seals install on each side of the engine crankcase.  On the output side (the side of the engine with the collet), slide the zero drag over the crankshaft with the tapered edge toward the seal, and press until it pops into the seal all the way with the flange seating flush against the face of the rubber seal.  To install the recoil side, remove the recoil, motor plate and flywheel.  There’s a small key (a half moon “key” which holds the flywheel to the crankshaft), remove the key.  Now you can repeat the installation process and press the zero drag into the rubber seal until it is seated flush.  Reinstall the key, flywheel, mount plate, and recoil and you are ready to go.

Zero Drag Seals reduce drag on the crankshaft, creating a smoother surface while retaining the crankcase seal.  Installing Zero Drag Seals helps the engine work less reducing wear and tear – while improving RPMs.  The improvements are incremental (relatively small), but are part of the process of achieving peak performance.

Where should my boat balance? How important is this?

On v-bottom boats, the balance point is 27-30% of the total length of the hull, measured from the transom (back of the boat). A 50” boat will balance at 13.5” – 15”. Balance is very important. A boat that is too nose-heavy may never get up on plane and will not handle correctly.

How and why should I keep my boat’s water system clean?

Keeping your water system clear is important part of a healthy running engine. It is important that all your lines, and if applicable, the water pump, be free of debris, any buildup or kinks in the line. If you are running in salt water, it’s critical that after every day of running, your back-flush your system with fresh water to keep salt residue from building up in the water lines, water jacket, etc.

This should be almost a weekly ritual to check all your lines and blow through them to ensure that you are getting adequate flow to keep heat damage from occurring.

How does a fail safe work?

The fail safe is an electronic device that plugs between the throttle servo and the receiver. It senses voltage and frequency changes or signal loss. In other words, if your battery drops to a specific voltage that could cause loss of signal to the radio or if you lose signal between the transmitter and the receiver, it shuts the throttle to a preset position, usually idle, preventing runaways.

What is the oil to fuel ratio I must use for my boat?

We recommend a 25:1 or 20:1 gas to oil ratio.  This is 5 or 6 ounces of 100% synthetic oil  (we recommend Amsoil Saber Pro or Honda HP2) added to 1 gallon of LOW octane gas (87 to 89).  This is ideal for most applications.  Do NOT use high octane or race fuel (this can harm the engine).  Once you choose the mix ratio, do not vary from it.  During engine break-in (typically 1.5 to 2 gallons of fuel through the engine), you should vary your running speed and avoid running full-throttle.  Always be careful to not over-rev the engine.  We recommend Bonzi Break-in Oil(one bottle will break-in 2 engines) for faster break-in with top performance.

You will have a break-in period with your engine.  Usually it takes about a gallon to a gallon and a half for you to achieve top performance.`

Information on octane measurement methods – Click here 
(.pdf format)

Octane Measurement Methods

  • Research Octane Number (RON)
    The most common type of octane rating worldwide is the Research Octane Number (RON).
    RON is determined by running the fuel in a test engine with a variable compression ratio under
    controlled conditions, and comparing the results with those for mixtures of iso-octane and nheptane.
  • Motor Octane Number (MON)
    There is another type of octane rating, called Motor Octane Number (MON), or the aviation
    lean octane rating, which is a better measure of how the fuel behaves when under load as it is
    done at 900 rpm instead of the 600 rpm of the RON. MON testing uses a similar test engine to
    that used in RON testing, but with a preheated fuel mixture, a higher engine speed, and
    variable ignition timing to further stress the fuel’s knock resistance. Depending on the
    composition of the fuel, the MON of a modern gasoline will be about 8 to 10 points lower than
    the RON. Normally, fuel specifications require both a minimum RON and a minimum MON.
  • Anti-Knock Index (AKI)
    In most countries, including all of those of Australia and Europe the “headline” octane rating
    shown on the pump is the RON, but in Canada, the United States and some other countries, the
    headline number is the average of the RON and the MON, called the Anti-Knock Index (AKI). It
    may also sometimes be called the Road Octane Number (RdON), Pump Octane Number (PON),
    or (R+M)/2.
  • Difference between RON and AKI
    Because of the 8 to 10 point difference noted above, the octane rating shown in the United
    States is 4 to 5 points lower than the rating shown elsewhere in the world for the same fuel.

How do I properly store my R/C boat during the winter months?

For those of you who need to store your boat(s) for the winter, (not all of us can live in warm weather year-round!)
there are a few steps you must take in order to properly winterize and to keep from having problems in the future.

1. Remove all fuel from tank and engine. Pump the fuel out of the tank using a pump, siphon, etc. There will be fuel left in the lines, the carb, as well as inside the engine. Generally, it’s recommended to fire the engine and let it idle until the engine quits. This will burn any unwanted fuel out of the engine and carburetor lines.

2. Remove the spark plug from the engine. Use a lightweight lubricating oil such as Marvel Mystery Oil Top Cylinder Lube. This can be purchased from most automotive stores, etc. Pour approximately an ounce of this lube into the spark plug hole. Gently pull the starting cord 7-10 times. Do it slowly so you won’t have oil flying everywhere. This will work the oil down into the engines, ring, bearings, etc, and will help keep rust from setting in. Put the spark plug back into the engine.

3. Remove the drive cable, clean, lubricate, and reinstall. Make sure that any water or rust is cleaned off.

4. Do not store rechargeable batteries with a full charge. You will want to discharge your batteries to eliminate any further future “memory” problems. You do not want to discharge completely – but you do not want to store with a full charge.

5. With a penetrating oil such as WD-40, spray any metal parts that might rust or corrode. Wipe everything down – make sure any grease or moisture is wiped off the parts.

You are now ready to store your boat!